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Spirit of the Age: Royal Robbins.
Chuck Pratt and Royal Robbins El Cap Spire,the Salathé Wall,El Capitan,Yosemite Valley, California.(September 1961)Once upon a time a new generation of climbers saw that it had stumbled into Paradise....
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Postcard from Pembroke.....
Lentil powered Barry Owen on Midnight Express: Steve Ashton My friend Barry Owen has never forgiven me for sneaking off to climb White Slab on Cloggy with someone else. That was 13 years ago, and like...
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Out to Lunch
The line of Tom Leppert's HVS!!!:' Out to Lunch'A ‘ping’ from my inbox announces Tom Leppert’s email. Glyder Fach New Routes it says. Our paths had crossed a week earlier, one sunny evening below the...
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The Atholl Expedition...Review
The Atholl Expedition is Alex Roddie’s follow up to his well received ‘The Only Genuine Jones’ although a short novella-Crowley’s Revenge- preceded this latest work.This was something of a rare...
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Wreckers' Slab
Mike Banks leads the first pitch of Wreckers' Slab:SVMemories have been stirred recently by recent features on the Very Severely Frightened theme. I have often been frightened — of course I have,...
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In at the deep end....Gorge scrambling in north and mid Wales
Gareth in the Coed y Brenin-South SnowdoniaI was alone and halfway up a steep mountain gully in Wales. Not one of the good kinds of gully; covered in reassuring neve or inviting ice, or consisting of...
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Mo Anthoine Remembered
Original Photo-Jim Curran Mo Anthoine was just 50 years when he died at home in Nant Peris on August 12th in 1989. Words I never imagined would ever have to be written, by me or anyone else.To write...
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Hold the front page
Gently does it...The Temptation of Saint Julitta:Llynau Mymbyr, North WalesApologies if you dropped in expecting a regular Friday feature. Like millions of other people, I'm otherwise engaged in family...
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Carpetbagging on Lliwedd
A few days later came news from Holland and I. A. R. that made me jump. There had been great doings after I left. More ascents of the Holly-Tree Wall, a new and apparently hair-raising climb—the...
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Eric Gill: to the Mountain
IT WAS during the long cold winter of 1923 that the renowned artist and craftsman, Eric Gill, arrived on a dark and snowcast night at the head of the remote Vale of Ewyas, deep in the Black Mountains....
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Prisoner of War
Bill Murray,Bill McKenzie,Archie McAlpine after the 2nd ascent of Rubicon Wall-1937:Photo Douglas Scott/SMCMountaineering in Scotland was the product of three years in prison camps. It was hammered out...
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The Gentle Art of Boulder Trundling
The following essay is the outcome of an argument between its author and the Club Treasurer on the ethics of boulder trundling, in the course of which the former averred that this practice had received...
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In Praise of Cheating
Though play as such is outside the range of good and bad, the element of tension imparts to it a certain ethical value in so far as it means a testing of the player's prowess: his courage, tenacity,...
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Fast and Free-Pete Livesey....Review.
Pete Livesey on Wellington Crack-E4: Original Photo John Cleare-Mountain Camera Picture Library.When I started climbing in earnest in about 1987, two names immediately sprang out of the new culture I...
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In the footsteps of Coleridge.
Shortly after midday on Sunday 1st August 1802, Samuel Taylor Coleridge strode down the hill from Greta Hall, his Keswick home, a knapsack over one shoulder and a broom-handle for a walking-stick, at...
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Catastrophe on the Jungfrau
FROM the Jungfrau on Friday, the 8th July, A terrible disaster was reported. Two tourists, Alfred Kuhn, of Strassburg, aged about 45, and Hans Harthold, of Saarbrucken, about 35, set out on the 8th...
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The Battle for Kinder Scout
The problem of gaining and preserving freedom of access to crags and mountains is becoming acute in certain areas. Where access itself is unrestricted, mountaineers may still find their freedom...
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Central Buttress...now and then
Herford on the first ascent of Central Buttress in 1914Just forty years ago this spring the most remarkable achievement in British rock climbing up to that time was carried out on a tremendous,...
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Spirit of the Age: Royal Robbins.
Chuck Pratt and Royal Robbins El Cap Spire,the Salathé Wall,El Capitan,Yosemite Valley, California.(September 1961)Once upon a time a new generation of climbers saw that it had stumbled into Paradise....
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George Borrow...The day he went to Bangor
Moel Siabod-Instagram imageWild Wales published in 1862 remains one of THE greatest British travelogues of all time. Its author, George Borrow harnessing a rare-for a Victorian Englishman- ability to...
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